For nearly 70 years, silicones have invaded our cosmetic formulas, becoming essential elements of the industry by providing a soft feel and smooth appearance to many beauty products at a low cost.
But in reality, there is a cost for everything. In the case of silicones, It is the environment that pays the priceIt is precisely for this reason, and because of their origin in petrochemicals, that silicones have always been banned in organic cosmetics.
We tell you more in this article!
What are silicones?
Silicones are inorganic polymers whose molecular structure is made up of silicon and oxygen, via siloxane bonds.
It is important to note that the terms "organic" and "inorganic" should not be confused with the English term "Organic" which means biological (as in organic farming) in French. This is a completely different vocabulary. A molecule is called "organic" if it contains carbon atoms and "inorganic" if it does not, nothing to do with agriculture...
Silicones are compounds obtained solely by chemical synthesis and do not exist in nature. Today, there are many derivatives of the silicone family, available in the form of oils (volatile or non-volatile), elastomers, or even resins.
In 2021, global annual production of silicones reached nearly 1,3 million tonnes! They are widely used in various sectors such as aeronautics, automotive, construction, textiles, food, health, and, of course, cosmetics.
What is the role of silicones in cosmetics?
As cosmetic ingredients, silicones are mainly used in creams, lotions, lipsticks, etc., for their sensory properties and/or their hydrophobic (water-repellent) nature. They are also present in shampoos and conditioners for their ability to remain on the surface of hair and skin.
If you look at the INCI list, silicones can be recognized by different names such as CYCLOMETHICONE, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, TRISILOXANE, DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL, AMINODIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONOL, DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, TRIMETHYSILOXYSILICATE, POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE.
Why should you ban silicones from your cosmetics?
- Silicones and your health
Due to their highly stable chemical structure, both biochemically and physically, silicones are considered "safe" for cosmetic use. They are neither irritant nor allergenic, and are also considered non-comedogenic.
However, the safety of silicones is often questioned! For example, Cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) has been banned since January 1, 2022, by the European Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, because this silicone is strongly suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.
As for the others, current research does not point to their harmful effects on our health.
- Silicones and their harmful effects on the environment
Silicones are a disaster for the planet. Given their non-biodegradability and the fact that some of them are classified as "persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic," their use in cosmetics should be stopped.
As mentioned previously, the highly resistant chemical structure of silicones will play a role in their biodegradation. Indeed, silicones are very difficult to biodegrade or even non-biodegradable (the conditions allowing partial degradation are rarely met).
Silicones found in rinse-off cosmetic products (shampoos, shower gels, hair masks) inevitably end up in wastewater. However, much of this wastewater doesn't even pass through treatment centers, but is instead discharged directly into nature. As a result, silicones pollute the land and oceans, posing a threat to biodiversity.
Even silicones that manage to pass through the treatment centers seriously disrupt the methanization process, contaminating the biogas used for industrial purposes (heat), domestic purposes (heating, domestic hot water, cooking) or fuel (BioNGV).
Even worse than their near non-biodegradability, Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and Cyclohexasiloxane (D6) have had or will have their dosages regulated because they are considered "Persistent, Bioaccumulative and Toxic" (PBT) substances.
Thus, regulations already restrict Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) for its use in rinse-off cosmetics to a maximum of 0,1%. These same regulations will be applied to this silicone in leave-on products as well as to Cyclohexasiloxane (D6) in both rinse-off and leave-on products in the coming years.
What are the alternatives to silicones in organic cosmetics?
Organic cosmetics can offer pleasant sensorial textures through the use of natural alternatives!
The organic cosmetic brands will formulate with ingredients such as squalane, essential fatty acids (omega-3, omega-6) or plant esters such as Avocado Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, etc.
So, will you do without silicones?